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Which resin for carbon lamination? The comprehensive material guide
The resin significantly influences the outcome of carbon laminating. If it's incorrectly chosen or processed, the part will become cloudy, sticky, or brittle. In this guide, we'll explain which resin is suitable for laminating, what you need to pay attention to regarding pot life and mixing ratio, and which mistakes to avoid – so your first visible carbon part succeeds on the first try.
- Standard for visible carbon fiber: A clear curing epoxy resin (laminating resin).
- Potting time: determines how long you can process – beginners should choose a bit longer.
- Mixing ratio Weigh precisely according to manufacturer's instructions – do not estimate.
- UV protection Seal the visible carbon with UV-stable clear coat.
Epoxy Resin vs. Polyester Resin - Which Should I Use?
For visible carbon fiber, there's practically no way around Epoxy resin finished. It adheres excellently to carbon fiber, cures crystal clear, and is stronger than polyester resin. Polyester resin is cheaper, but smells strongly, yellows faster, and adheres poorly to carbon.
| Property | Epoxy resin | Polyester resin |
|---|---|---|
| Liability for carbon | Very good | Moderate |
| Transparency | Crystal clear | Turns yellow faster |
| Strength | High | Little |
| Smell | Low | Stark |
| Recommendation for visible carbon fiber | Yes | No |
The most important key figures for laminating resin
Pot life (working time)
The pot life indicates how long the mixed resin remains liquid and workable. A longer pot life is more convenient for beginners because it allows more time for bubble-free saturation. Heat shortens, and cold lengthens the pot life.
Mixture ratio
Resin and hardener must be mixed exactly in the specified ratio (by weight). Even small deviations will cause the resin to not cure completely and remain sticky. An accurate scale is required.
Viscosity
A thinner laminating resin saturates the fabric more easily and completely. For the final sealing, a slightly thicker finishing or topcoat resin may be useful.
How much resin do I need?
As a rough rule of thumb, for hand laminating you can expect about the same weight of resin as fabric, plus a reserve for sealing. More important than „a lot“ is „evenly“: too much resin makes the part heavy and cloudy, too little leads to dry, gray spots. We explain the right technique step by step in the guide. „Making carbon yourself“.
The right material for carbon modifications
To ensure the resin, hardener, and fabric are optimally matched, you will find in the DIY Shop coordinated products. An overview of our entire range for DIYers can be found on the page DIY products. Those who want to start with a complete, coordinated package should opt for the Carbon coating set – the appropriate resin is already included.
Laminate yourself or have it laminated?
With the right resin and a bit of practice, smaller parts can be successfully made at home. For complex shapes or the highest demands on the surface, professional manufacturing makes more sense. You can read all about it on our page. Laminate carbon as in the guide „Have carbon parts made“.
Resins, hardeners, fabrics, and accessories – perfectly coordinated.
Frequently Asked Questions
What resin is used for carbon lamination?
A clear-curing epoxy laminating resin. It adheres very well to carbon, cures crystal clear, and is more stable than polyester resin.
Can I use polyester resin for visible carbon fiber?
It's not recommended – it adheres worse, smells strong, and yellows faster. For visible carbon fiber, epoxy resin is the right choice.
Why does my resin stay sticky?
Mostly due to an incorrect mixing ratio or too low a temperature. Always weigh resin and hardener exactly and observe the minimum temperature.
Do I need to seal visible carbon fiber additionally?
Yes. For a lasting shine and UV protection, visible carbon should be sealed with a UV-stable clear coat.
Written by: Fiverr Services
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